Saturday, March 28

Discovery Week '09 - Barcelona!

As I mentioned in the previous post, I really loved Barcelona. The students also had a great time with all of our activities, which ranged from cultural tours to hiking. Here are some highlights:

Watching Flamenco dancing. The rhythms are so syncopated (not in time with the music). It was incredible. Here's a 36 second video:



The architecture of Gaudi and others who fell into the modernisma (Art Nouveau) category. Barcelona has really embraced beauty in its buildings!

Inner courtyard of La Pedrera. All the apartments are circular!

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The roof - functional art. Those are staircases and chimneys!
Roof of La Pedrera

Sagrada Familia and our group. Begun in 1882. Scheduled completion 2035.
Sagrada Familia

The inner nave is meant to resemble a forest with light filtering through:
Forest of Sagrada Familia

There was a cooking class where we learned to make paella
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A tour of FC (football club) Barcelona stadium:
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(that was actually my least favorite thing)

And of course the food! I ate tapas every day!
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Thursday, March 26

I Heart Barcelona

This city is GORGEOUS. Really spectacular. I've had fun with the group of 28 students and 3 other chaperones. I'll be writing more about our days when I add the pictures to flickr. But in the mean time, we've been enjoying warm weather and sun.

Did anyone else see the news that Moscow got a foot of snow yesterday? I can't find it, so I'm ignoring it...

Friday, March 20

Seriously?!

It's March 19th, almost the end of March - well at least more than half way through. So when I wake up to a snow covered ground, I find it a little irritating. Ok, a lot irritating. I'm done with winter. Last year I wanted more, this year, now that I got more, well, I'm done.

On the upside, when I leave the house at 6:15 it's light out :) And since we have one more week until day light savings kicks in that might still be true.

Oh and on Sunday I head to Barcelona for Discovery Week. Our itinerary is great - tours of Gaudi cathedral and the Dali museum. Then we've got a 4 hour bike ride, a 4 hour hike to a medieval village. Yep, my life does not suck. Just the snow.

Saturday, March 14

A little excitement

My posts are pretty boring. I know this. I just don't know how to write them any better... But perhaps this one will be a bit better because it involves romance and characters from the past...

A few weeks ago:

Our heroine (that's me), goes to a progressive "bar" hopping where each apartment had a different themed bar where you stayed for 30-45 minutes partaking in the host's theme. Being several metro stops away from home and wanting to sleep in her own bed, she actually managed to stay relatively sober, largely helped by volunteering to tend bar at the martini bar. At the last bar "Heaven and Hell," she meets a guy - an economist from DC in town for 6 weeks.

3 days later:
Our heroine makes a reservation at a small, local, smoke-free restaurant (with the help of a Russian student) for dinner. She is meeting the economist from the party. She arrives at the restaurant early only to be told her reservation doesn't exist. "Of course not, f*cking Russia." Undaunted and now joined by the economist, they head off to a second, larger branch of the same restaurant. They talk for an hour before they order their meal. "Ah" she thinks "This is what I was missing conversation." Dinner arrives and is delicious. Conversation continues. At the end of the evening the economist is left at the corner with a nice good-bye kiss.

2 days later:
It is the Friday before February break. Several teachers and embassy employees have gathered at a British pub. Both our heroine and the economist are present. More good conversation ensues followed by a long walk back to the heroines apartment for some old fashioned making out. While this is nice, it lacks the passion she has once known. She finds her mind wandering, never a good thing while making out. She sends him home in time to catch the metro. Their phone conversation is a bit strained the next day but normal enough.

The following day our heroine is on a plane bound for Thailand with 10 students to keep her mind fully occupied.

A week later:
Our heroine has returned to the cold; it's minus ten again. On that day the economist calls, but she's still on the bus headed home. She attempts to return his call to no avail. He never calls back and she's not really bothered.

Two weeks later:
It's the end of February now. Winter is still upon us. However, day light is increasing giving the air hope that spring might arrive. Tonight is the Carnival party at the German embassy. She has a passing thought wondering if the economist will be there since embassy people tend to go to other embassy parties, but isn't very concerned one way or the other. She hasn't really bothered to wonder whether Za German will be there; last she heard, he was returning home to Germay at the end of February. Over the past two months she hasn't thought of him much, though she's saved pictures and hasn't ever deleted his number from her phone. Regardless, she has far better things to do - she's busy looking at patterns for masks to attempt to paint onto her face as a costume.

Face painted, corseted up, our heroine, her neighbor and her one Russian friend arrive at the party... And their is Za German, manning the gate. The others don't see him engrossed in their conversation, but she can't see anything else. He smiles, but no words are exchanged. She does notice that he already knows where her name is on the list and tells the person checking ids to let her in.

Inside the party now, there are costumed people everywhere! Yay! She loves these events, loves the creativity, the excitement. Za German has entered the room and while the occasional glance is stolen, they remain on separate sides of the room for 2 hours.

She doesn't quite remember moving towards him or him toward her, but, suddenly, they are together. They are talking. It is like nothing has changed. After having not seen each other for 2 months, they discuss why they haven't. She says, "But you didn't want a relationship, I didn't see the point in trying to continue..." The rest of the room has disappeared and they only see each other. "I missed you," seems to emerge into the air simultaneously.

Hours have passed. Our heroine has turned into a horrible friend, ignoring her neighbor and the Russian, but she can't tear herself away. Such is the delight to be near him again. Somehow, though she knows it's not a good idea, they agree to get together next Wednesday.

And it's all so natural. So easy. They manage to talk, to really talk, finally. She has the chance to say what she wants: "I know we're not good at this part, the talking. And I don't understand why... I don't really think it's the language, there's something else keeping us apart. But I also know this, it's never been like this with anyone else. It's never been so easy, so right, so good, so (very) passionate." And he has a chance as well, "I feel like if I met you a year from now that would be it. But I'm not ready for this yet. But I'm also afraid I'll return to Germany and feel like I made a huge mistake." She reminds him that she's not asking for any promises and is not making any, but she'll be in Moscow for another year and a half. That maybe things will work out and maybe not, but that maybe they should try. And then on Thursday, he's gone, for real this time.

But, she finds herself with plans to travel to Germany, to see what it's like in his native environment. To see if they think there's any point in her returning over the summer. And the saga continues.

332/365

Sunday, March 1

Kindergarterners


IMG_0843.JPG
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

Owww, my ovaries hurt.

In all their glory


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Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

Here's my group I took to Thailand. They're wearing harnesses in preparation for doing a ropes course.

Tuesday, February 24

I'm going insane

I'd forgotten just how allergic I am to Thailand in February. When I went in 2005 for 6 weeks I was taking 2 anti-histamines a day. I tried that again this trip to no avail. I was horribly congested all week.

I think I did a pretty good job of not taking it out on the kids though. I only got angry when they deserved it - you couldn't pay me enough to be a teenager again and it's because they make stupid decisions. Like hiding in the bathroom when I've caught the boys in the girl's room past curfew. However, there were only a few instances of stupidity and on the whole it was an INCREDIBLE experience. We built 14 tables and 28 benches for the school we were working at which means the 254 students of that school no longer have to eat sitting on the floor. We worked, we played, I sneezed.

Right, back to that. So the first plane flight back to Bangkok was incredibly painful. Bangkok to Moscow was better. I managed to go to work Monday and heard at least 20 times "Wow, your hair doesn't look nearly as bad as I thought it would" or "That's not a ~real~ mohawk. You need to shave the sides."

But by the end of the day the congestion was winning. So I got a sub. And I've stayed home all day today. Good move as most of the day has been spent sleeping. However, the congestion has moved COMPLETELY into my right ear. It's driving me crazy. I can't hear anything, it feels full of cotton, hanging upside down isn't helping. I know it will go away when the congestion clears up, but in the mean time, ARGH.

Also, somehow my dvd player has broken. And since I get no tv channels, that means my usual sick day plans of watching movies has been thwarted. Though I did finish reading The Fourth Bear (I love Jasper Fforde) and am almost done with Neverwhere (I also have a huge crush on Neil Gaiman). Neverwhere is especially excited as I started it over x-mas but then left it on a plane!! All subsequent trips to bookstores came up empty. However, the awesome school librarian ordered it for me and it arrived just in time for today's sick day!

Tuesday, February 17

So the thing with this hair is...

when Bree and I are walking around together we look like a couple. Especially true when we went and had side-by-side foot massages...

Yesterday one of the students said to me "Ms. S, people are looking at you and laughing about your hair." Me: "So, let them. It ~is~ pretty funny looking..."

We've arrived after a really, really long day. 9 hour flight to Bangkok, 6 hours in the airport, 1 hour flight to Chiang Rai, 1.5 hour drive to MRVR but then we're there. The kids "Wow! This is where we're staying?" We got settled for dinner and then after playing night games against, scratch that, WITH, ISB (Int'l School of Bangkok). However, our students are not so good at the mingling with our the schools thing. Turns out they have a superiority complex. Our girls thought their girls were whiny (I agreed), our boys thought they were better than everyone else (I disagreed). So we had a minor "discussion" about it last night. However, that discussion has been the only one necessary. They've been really great.

Due to a mix-up we weren't able to start our building today, instead it was team building this morning - good for our "bossy" kids and we're off canoeing this afternoon. I am really lucky to have this opprotunity.

Oh, speaking of lucky. I worked a lot with a parent to get our tickets on Thai Air at a reasonable price. He met us at the airport yesterday and upgraded the teachers to business class. I felt a bit bad about leaving the students in economy... but not quite bad enough to give one of them my ticket...

Sunday, February 15

New Hair!


Excited about our new dos!
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

We're both really excited. I wish mine was a bit more purple on top and a bit more peaked, but oh well, it'll do for a first mohawk!

Saturday, February 14

Big Day

Today's the day of the faux/mo-hawk. I'm off in about 25 minutes to the hair dresser - perhaps I'm cheating a bit having it professionally done, but in the end I am too vain and I want it to look good.

Then, I've got a dinner party to show it off at.

I'm being picked up tomorrow at 1:45 to head to school to meet the students and then we'll travel together to the airport. I can't believe that after all the time spent planning and working, we're finally off. We'll be rebuilding a kitchen and adding a new water purification system to a hill tribe school.

But first, we'll go out and have lunch in Bangkok during our 7 hour lay over :)

I'll try to get a picture of the new do up before I leave.

Yay!

Thursday, February 5

Latest Aeroflot Incident

Passengers had a pilot removed from the direct Moscow-NYC flight because the pilot was drunk.

Moscow Times story: http://www.moscowtimes.ru/article/600/42/374157.htm

My favorite quotes from the story:

  • "It took him three attempts to say the words 'duration of the flight.'

  • At the same time, an Aeroflot representative sought to assure them that "it's not such a big deal if the pilot is drunk."

    "Really, all he has to do is press a button and the plane flies itself," the representative said. "The worst that could happen is he'll trip over something in the cockpit."

  • "I don't think there's anyone in Russia who doesn't know what a drunk person looks like," said Katya Kushner, who, along with her husband, was one of the first to react when the pilot made his announcement. "At first, he was looking at us like we were crazy. Then, when we wouldn't back down, he said, 'I'll sit here quietly in a corner. We have three more pilots. I won't even touch the controls, I promise.'"


  • An Aeroflot spokeswoman said the pilots were removed due to "mass psychosis" among the passengers and that ... Aeroflot would sue Sobchak (socialite who made the biggest ruckus) if the costs of delaying the flight were "very large."

Sunday, February 1

Baby, it is freaking cold outside

It's been between -15 and -20 C (0 to -4 F) over the weekend. And I got out in it. When in Rome, right? I went to watch a broomball game yesterday. Basically people chase each other around on a tennis court that's been flooded and hence a court of ice. Near as I can tell, it's like floor hockey with really small sticks made of duct tape. Seems to be easiest to maneuver around the court on your knees. If you try to run you just fall. But that also seemed ok as most people had what appeared to be pillows taped to their legs. I'm glad I got to watch and am also glad I'm not playing.

The nice thing about the cold is that the sun has returned. I love sun reflecting off snow.

It's supposed to warm back up to -8 tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to get away with wearing only 1 pair of long underwear. I had 3 pair on under my snow pants yesterday...

Oh, speaking of yesterday (I guess that's what the whole post is about really), I went and saw an INCREDIBLE Puccini concert. The first half was choral music, second half a mini-opera in Russian style complete with leather min-dresses (think hot nurse) and stilettos. But with opera singing in Italian. Very strange. The choral part was my favorite. I love good choral music. Something I wasn't really cognizant of until I moved here.

Saturday, January 31

I'm so excited!

And I just can't hide it, I'm about to lose control... oh, wait, I'm too much of a control freak to do that. Nonetheless I am excited.

Today's picture of the day count: 304. That means 61 days until the big 3-0 (finally, I'll be the age I feel). This also happens to fall right at the beginning of spring break. And I'm going to celebrate it with great friends! My sister is coming from Atlanta, Sha and Minnie and maybe Joy! (fingers crossed) are coming from SF!!!, and Erin and I will be traveling from here. We'll start in Rome and then head off for a week to a house we've rented a house in Tuscany. A week of food, wine and wonderful women. Bring it on!

Also, I'm also excited that I'll likely be getting the mohawk I've been dreaming about since I was 18 ("that's been your lifelong dream? That's pretty pathetic, Ms. S" "No, it's only been my half-life dream :-P"). Over the last 2 days the students raised over $1,000. A third of the way to the goal. However, I've been told it's "really not fair to the other teachers, because we think you'll rock (or is it rawk!) a mohawk." Aww, thanks kids. Here's a student mock-up:

Tuesday, January 27

Hair today, gone tomorrow?

Well, my Thai Challenge group travels to Thailand in just over 2 weeks. We're still short of our fundraising goal. About $2,500 short. So the other 2 chaperones and I told the students: "You raise $3,000 over the next 2 weeks and Ms. S (that's me) will get a mohawk, Bree (remember her from February break last year) will shave her head, and Ms. T will dye her hair tutti-frutti."

I'll let you know how it progresses...

Ballet, again

It has been almost 10 years since my last ballet class. Correction, it HAD been ten years. Until today. I took a ballet class with someone who trained/danced with the Moscow State Conservatory! I got their early and Olga took the time to start early with me doing floor work. Sit-ups, stretching. My legs used to go out sideways from my hips, but not anymore.

Then, we had class with 4 other people, one of whom was a student from my school. It was great. It hurt, but was great. And they asked me to start learning a dance they've been working on for months, because they think I'm strong enough to pick it up! Go me.

Thursday, January 22

Winter Wonderland

Remember how last year, I went even further north for February break to have real winter. Remember? Here's me with snow crab to prove it:



Well, no need this year. As it's been cold and snowy ever since I returned. Heck, even before I left it was -10 C. It's been very pleasant as it hasn't actually been that cold, more like -3 ish, which is bad in a way because during the day it warms up, the snow starts to melt and then refreezes making it icy. But I'm loving the winter.

Sunday I went and saw the Nutcracker! Did you know they show it year-round here?? In the middle of the performance I actually turned around behind me, reached across my friend Bree to hit the man sitting next to her. That's right, I hit a stranger. And no, I don't mean hit on. He wouldn't stop talking. Even after being asked in Russian (by native speakers) to stop. So I smacked his leg and made the "sssshhhh" noise. Yep, that's me. Irritate me enough at the theater and I will hit you.

Here I am before the show (not yet irritated):

Saturday, January 17

A monolgue to the Grade 11s

"Raise your hand if you have a faceb00k page."

80% of hands raise including myself, the assistant principal and the principal. Horrified gasps from students are heard.

"Raise your hand if you have a friend with a faceb00k page."

100% of hands raised.

"Now as some of you noted, I have an account. And while I was on winter vacation I spent some time looking around, which is the only time that I really have to do such a thing. Unlike you, whom I see checking your wall and updating in between classes. Heck, some of you do it even during class... not my class of course, I'd kill you.

However, as I was looking around I saw several of you in photos. All it takes is for me to be a friend of one of your friends. And even if you have your account set to "only my friends can see" as soon as you tag one of my friends in a photo, I get to see all the photos in that album.

I've seen you at clubs, smoking, drinking, showing off champagne bottles covered in corsets. At these clubs there are often women dancing in their underwear and for some reason you take photos of these women and put it on your faceb00k account.

Now, I understand that we live in Russia, where the legal age for drinking and smoking is 18 and only rarely enforced. Fine. Do what you want in your own time! But don't put photos on faceb00k. And here's why. Those colleges that you're applying to, the ones with thousands of applicants. They need someway to make a final decision. And so they'll go to faceb00k or other such places. And if all they see is that you're a party kid, do you really think they want you representing their university?"

I think this was the first assembly that held all the students' attention. And I've gotten some great feed back such as:

"Ms. S, I never knew that stuff. I've updated my profile."

"Ms. S, you know you were right. I realized I had added these people that I met at a conference and then I was looking at their friends and one of them had MY FACE as their profile picture."

"Ms. S, some of us are getting together to take pictures of us studying for math to add to our profiles." That, obviously, was my favorite.

Tuesday, January 13

Yep, that's it

Most of the people who read this have already been updated in person, but for the other 4 of you out there, the relationship with Za German is now officially over. All done quite amicably. No tears were shed. In the end, really, if I can be honest or blunt, and when have I ever been one to put things delicately?! Our relationship was predominately a physical one. And while that's fun, a whole lot of orgasms, err fun, it's not really sustainable. Our phone conversations were an average of 6 minutes, our emails about the weather. I need discourse and dialogue.

So here I am single again. However as my mom said, "There are plenty of fish in the sea. Just not the sea you live in." Right, and I'm here one more year. Thanks for the reminder, mom.

In other news, I still love my job. I'm getting ready to go to Thailand in February with 9 students to build a dormitory. Ooh, email must be sent!

And speaking of sent emails, I just sent one off to Oregon State where I've just applied for their online masters program in Mathematics Education. Higher education, here I come... again.

Thursday, January 8

Happy New Year

Wow, so much has happened since my last post. So Natasha and I made it out on the Tuesday flight. My parents were waiting for us and the last 2 weeks flew by in a blur of food and travel.

And now I'm back. I reviewed my last few posts and it's funny looking down at "Our Last Day Together" I've returned and am thinking, was that really it? Seems like it could be. After returning home from the missed flight Za German and I talked on the phone. And then he said, "When you get back, we should talk." Uh-oh, that's never good. We couldn't just leave it there, so we talked a bit more. What will happen when he leaves in February? Do we really like each other enough to go for long distance? Or do we just get along so well because we're in Moscow? Even though it hurt at the time, I've been thinking about it a lot and decided he's right. I hadn't really considered how it would be outside of Moscow. Our conversations don't last very long on the phone or via email, so how could we possibly keep a long distance relationship going. Besides that, I honestly don't know how well we really would get along outside of Moscow. And there have been no tears through all of this consideration. Yet another reason I know he's right. But looks like the actual conversation won't get to happen until Saturday or Sunday. So, stay tuned and in the meantime I hope to be back with pictures from Natasha's and my (what is the grammatically correct way to say that?) US adventure.

And I'm almost 30 people, 84 days away. Time to find "the one," I can almost hear my marriage clock ticking.

Sunday, December 21

Still here...

Alternate titles:

Why does this keep happening to me?
I'm never flying with a buddy pass again?
5 H-O-U-R-S, 4 Security Checks, 3 bag openings, 2 trips to the airport and a frustrated Eh-mah-leee (sung)

I tried going home to Atlanta today. Here's what it's like flying out of Sheremeytevo:

Arrive, maybe have to run your bag through an x-ray. Look at the screen. Find what counter to check in at.

Go through the "nothing to declare" channel. Definitely have your bags x-rayed. All of them, even your purse.

Then have your passport looked at. Answer the questions "who packed your bag? where? when?"

Then have someone open all your bags and look through them.

Then, and only then, do you stand in line to actually get your boarding pass. Or in my case, stand-by ticket. Then passport control... more waiting.

After passport control, wait in line to go through security - shoes off, coat off, stand in a human x-ray with your arms in the air. Not kidding.

Finally get into the area full of duty free shops and people smoking. Again, not kidding.

Go to the bathroom where the water in all the toilets is 5 day old pee yellow. Nope, still not kidding.

Get to the gate to be patted down, then have your carry-on bags looked through. Finally sit and wait to board. And wait, and wait. "We're fixing the a/c on the plane. We'll begin boarding in another 20 minutes." 20 minutes later. "We're still waiting for clearance. We'll board in 20 mintes." 20 minutes later. "The flight plan has changed and we need more fuel. We estimate boarding in 20 minutes."

However, I'd been told I was getting on the plane, so I didn't care. I sat and knit... and knit.

Finally, on the plane, business class. I've checked in my coat, ordered the sole for dinner. Wait, why is the gate attendant on the plane? Why is he telling people to get off? Why is he coming towards me?

Dammit! The plane is too heavy... TOO HEAVY! And removing the 7 buddy pass fliers will make it light enough to fly apparently.

So, now I'm home again. I'll head out with Natasha on Tuesday. In the meantime, I have more time to knit. And go to business lunch. Maybe I'll get to see Za German one more time.

But truth be told, I wish I were still on that plane.

X-Mas Present


X-Mas Present Version2
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

Here's what I made for Marco. We're so cute it's sick.

Our last day together


Marco - the photographer
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

this year anyway. Za German and I went around and had a day in the city. We went to the Tretchikov Gallery (great!) and then walked across the river to Red Square. We ate a hot dog then came back to my place so I could give him his gift - a photo mosaic, see above.

Saturday, December 6

Bunko!

I proctored the SATs this morning. Boy have they changed since I was taking them! There are 10, TEN, sections and the test taking lasts 4 hours. That means I was there 6 hours, on a Saturday people. Sucks ass. And unfortunately, no Mickey, I couldn't bring a book with me because as a diligent proctor I have to watch the kids for 4, FOUR!, hours to make sure they aren't cheating. Easily the most boring 4 hours of my life thus far, and as you know if you read this blog, my life isn't that exciting.

It's been especially not exciting this week as Za German has had visitors of the male persuasion the past week and thus I haven't seen him as his been out with his buddies playing host, read staying out until 7 taking them to different clubs.

So I've had a dull week, except for tonight, when I learned a new game, Bunko! I've heard of people having bunko parties, but I think that was mostly on sit-coms. Tonight I actually attended a party and it was like Yahtzee! and musical chairs all in one. Add in a bunch of snack foods, gin and tonic and you've got a recipe for great fun.

Friday, December 5

Weird


238/365 (self-portrait)
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

This photo, which I only recently added to my 365 days of photos set, has been viewed 69 times! Does that seem weird to anyone else? Most of those photos have only been viewed 3 times, 5 for an especially good one... And I don't see anything especially interesting about this one. Can someone help me out?



Ok, I just went back to flickr and researched more. Seems people came upon it by searching for "boots" and/or "rain boots." 'Tis the season, I guess.

And speaking of the season, I've spent my Friday night baking cookies for a cookie swap I'm hosting Sunday! I'm making snowballs (aka Russian tea cakes, aka Mexican wedding cookies) and thumb prints (aka thimble cookies, the ones with an indentation filled with jam or candied fruit).

Tomorrow I have the excitement of proctoring the SATs. Yep, that's right, it's a never ending party in my world.

Wednesday, December 3

Dolled Up


241/365
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

I spent an hour watching You Tube videos on "smokey eyes". In the end I think the make up turned out well. And of course, I was happy to be all decked out mit meinem mann. We went to the annual AAS holiday party. Last year was incredible, this year, eh, it was ok. Had a much better time coming home with the man, if you know what I mean.

Saturday, November 22

Just when I was beginning to have faith...

Remember how last year my group of Higher Level students stole tests from my room, made copies and distributed them, causing me to have to do a TON more work??? Well, this year, our relationship was evolving. I had regained trust in them and was enjoying them.

Then, I get very sick. I stay home, trusting that they'll take their test with the sub. Then I get this email from my department head:

I understood from your substitute that a group of students, seeing that you are not there, just left the room. This is the reason you will find less tests to mark.


I have just 4 out of 10 to mark. FOUR! Of those missing 6, only 2 have gotten in touch with me. One told me she skipped the morning knowing she wasn't prepared. Another was "stuck in traffic because his car still doesn't have the snow tires on it."

Oh, so angry. Apparently they've all already been rounded up and put on Saturday school. Then they'll be coming in to see me after school to take the test. Now the question is, and I think it must be, that they get a different version, which I must write. Two versions never end up being equal in difficulty, want to guess which version will end up harder...

Mean, a bit, but have I mentioned I'm angry.

Left Overs

I love left overs... for about one day. But this morning, my throat has only a twinge of pain left in it and I surveyed my refrigerator. I made some congee, inspired by Kayaksoup from when she was home sick. Mine was good, but needed more salt. That's not what I wanted for breakfast, albeit, it is a traditional breakfast food. No, instead I spied the left over spaghetti from two nights ago that Za German made.

I have a microwave. I use it fairly frequently to heat left overs, one dish clean up after dinner and all. But in my opinion, the only way to heat left over spaghetti, is on the stove top. I love how it dries the sauce out just a bit, but the noodles are still tender.

Eating spaghetti for breakfast, yet another thing I love about living along...

Friday, November 21

Fresh Air

No, I'm not going to write about Terry Gross today, though I did use to love hearing her voice over my radio. Instead, Za German (thanks Amanda) said, "Now don't worry, when you open the door what you'll experience is fresh air. Don't be scared." I think he was probably more ready for the fresh air than me. He arrived yesterday with instant chicken noodle (alphabet!) soup - exactly what I'd been craving. He made it while I laid on the couch. Then we watch Lord of War in English with German subtitles - those crazy Germans seem to capitalize every 3rd word! Took a 2 hour nap before he made me spaghetti - still soft, but with a bit more substance. We watched another film - Zoolander, always funny, but I think Za German missed my favorite joke about the eulogy - and ten hours of sleep. By this morning, he suggested we get out.

So, yes, I ventured out of the apartment today. I had hoped to make it to business lunch at Goodman's steak house for a kick-ass burger, but my energy and appetite weren't up to it yet. Instead, we walked to the grocery store. But I did get hungry along the way so we stopped off for sandwiches. It was $12 worth of deliciousness. I could only eat half though. Za German was kind enough to finish it off for me. I hope it doesn't make him sick.

But I have been on antibiotics a full 2.5 days now, along with anti-inflammatories (last morning for those things) as well as pain medicine. It seems to have killed everything in my body, along with all the friendly bacteria I should have. Which leads me to have at least one more conversation topic with the doctor tomorrow at my follow-up appointment (do they have 1 day yeast infection treatments here in Moscow, they must right??? perhaps TMI, but it seems the more personal I get the more readership I have...)

I was supposed to go to some Scottish party tomorrow night at the US Embassy Dacha which is to include poetry readings, dancing and singing. I don't know that I'll make it. Tonight there's a chili cook-off at the Canadian embassy that I'm missing as well. Stupid tonisilitis.

Thursday, November 20

Hurts so Bad

No, don't get worried, the Hunky German and I are doing fine. Several of you have asked for details, but I'm not one to kiss, or do hours of kissing, and tell. But I will tell you we met at the Oktoberfest Party at the German Embassy, where he works, on Saturday, September 27th. Here we are dancing the night we met:



We had our first "date" the following Tuesday after my sister left and then Sha arrived. We talked on the phone a bit, Sha got to meet him a few times. We trounced him at Noochi (high speed group solitaire) and he handled it quite well. We see each other a few times a week. Unfortunately he leaves Moscow at the end of February :( Who knows what will happen then...

So no, that's not why I hurt. I am home sooooo sick. I was crying at the doctors office yesterday because it hurt just to say my name when I first got there and no one understood me and finally a nurse said "Oh, Emily S..." and I nodded yes and pointed. They said sit down. My appointment time came and went and all these other people went by. Finally I went back to the desk and pointed to my watch. They asked my name, this time I just wrote it down. And they said "Did you tell us you were here?!" And then rushed me back to see a very nice French doctor. Who took one look at my incredibly swollen tonsils and said "oh, I bet that hurts a lot." But it's not strep. "That's a good thing, step is very bad bacteria," he said. "But yours is also really bad." And they don't know what it is. So he gave me an anti-inflammatory shot in my butt and then a prescription with 5 different things on it! Everything having to be swallowed of course. By last night I could finally eat a bowl of soup. I was lucky that all the medicine on an empty stomach didn't make me nauseous!

So later today, the German is coming to take care of me. I've already taken off Wednesday, Thursday and Friday of this week. Maybe I'll actually be able to enjoy a bit of tomorrow. But at this point, Thursday morning, it still hurts to swallow.

Tuesday, November 11

It's fun, right?

I've started a knitting group here. My idea was to have a Stitch 'N' B!tch type club where I could sit around knitting and being social. Thus far only 2 people have been coming regularly and mostly they come for advice on how to knit. This is fine, I'm happy to help, but last night over the 2 hours, I didn't get to knit a single stitch. Argh. I'll never get holiday gifts done at this rate!

Grumble.

And now a funny story that some of you may enjoy about my recent trip home. After missing the flight the first day, I got on the second day, in business class. Like a flying fancy restaurant, they come for your order. Menu options were filet mignon, seared cod, stuffed chicken breast or pasta with mushrooms and arugula.

"And what would you like ma'am?"

"Filet, please."

"Oooh, we're pretty full tonight and since you're the lowest priority of business class (my ticket was only $400), I don't think I can accommodate you. What's your second choice?"

"The fish."

Winces. "I don't think I have enough of that either... But the pasta looks really good tonight..."

Sigh. "Ok, that's fine."

We take off. I get to talking with my neighbor. A blond, big breasted Russian woman in her late 40s or so. She's telling me about how she's on her 4th husband, this one a rich (we're talking, he lost 20 million in his last divorce, rich) American guy who lives in Florida while she's still in Moscow. Our meals arrive. I've got an oily pasta, she gets the filet. Of course.

She proceeds to use her fork to brush off all the sauce. Then she cuts off a piece and rolls it around in her napkin (at least she used the paper one from under her drink rather than the cloth one) to further remove all the sauce. Then she proceeds to shred it. Yes, by now I'm also thinking she's crazy. Then she grabs the shreds and ...

...

feeds them to the cat at her feet. Thankfully I'd had enough wine to find this incredibly amusing rather than shouting "Dammit Fluffy, that's my steak you're eating."

Sunday, November 9

Not even a week

Yep, I didn't even make it a week. I just can't be bothered to blog everyday. My life isn't that exciting. And sure I have all these thoughts running around in my head, things I would like to provide my own editorial on, but when I get home I don't want to head to my computer. Regardless, I'm no longer committing myself to NaBloPoMo

Or yesterday, which was a rather perfect day of sleeping in, snuggled in warm arms in a cold room, heading off to the Gorbushka market for a very Russian morning, coming home to watch a terrible movie (Deception, oh, Hugh Jackman, how could you??), supervising the making of some delicious dark chocolate, white chocolate, pecan, pinenut cookies (what a role reversal, I washed, he cooked - it's so much easier to cook with two!), knitting a bit and then heading to a wine and cheese party. Why would I want to interrupt any of that by sitting alone at my computer??

However, I will try to post more often this month. Which compared to October will be a snap ;) Oh look I've already more than doubled October's posts!

Thursday, November 6

Back in the Saddle

When I got back, I made a comment that I didn't want to go back to work. But arriving yesterday, seeing my students, feeling like I was going 50 mph all day, who am I kidding? I love it. Besides, I would get so bored staying home.

I got my form to notify the school if I'm "Definitely Staying" or "Definitely Leaving" Those are our only two options. We have until Nov. 28th. Even though at this point, I feel as though I'm definitely staying, I'm going to hold on to the form a bit longer. We all know how I tend to change my mind... Although I can't imagine leaving my Grade 11s. I really want to stay with them and watch them graduate.

Wednesday, November 5

Dude, I suck

Man, it's only the 5th day and already I've blown it. Oh wait, back in the states it's still the 5th...

Tuesday, November 4

Last Minute

I'm not so good at this posting everyday thing. I didn't even want to turn on the computer. But I'm back. It was a lovely return home - business class flight, German boy waiting to spend the afternoon with me. Yes, I'm glad to be back.

Monday, November 3

Off again

With one extra suitcase, I return to Moscow today. Hopefully business class again, but as long as I make it there I don't care.

Sunday, November 2

Reconnecting

I had lunch and dinner with people I've known for well over 10 years, one I've known for over 20. It's amazing to have friendships that seem to be timeless.

Saturday, November 1

Anything you can do, I can do better

Ok, that's not really what I was thinking when I signed up for NaBloPoMo, National Blog Posting Month, or something of the sort. But The Prettiest Denny's Waitress somehow manages to do it. So I thought I'd give it a whirl. I mean hell, it's Nov. 1st and I've already posted 3 messages. I'll just add it to my picture-a-day mentality.

Reading his post yesterday about Halloween and how he was going to start again, inspired me. That and I wanted to talk more about Halloween costumes.

Last night, I sat on the front porch of my grandmother's house - a house I love, over 100 years old, big, but not too big; just this past year she had a shower installed in the upstairs bathroom - before the only shower had been in the unfinished basement; and she raised her 10 children here. My job was to give 1 piece of candy to every trick-or-treater. The town had agreed that 6-7:30 would be the time. So I sat, on a relatively warm night, reading and handing out candy to a small yoda, a dalmation, a few princesses, etc. And you know what, only a handful, small handful, of costumes were homemade! Almost everyone was store bought.

I remember being a ballerina, a hobo, a witch all from items we had around the house. One year I made myself a pumpkin wearing an orange sweatshirt and green tights. But somehow all these adults have bought into the idea that the costume must be purchased. If your kid is under 4, they don't care. Besides, they shouldn't have an opinion.

I was talking with my great-aunt yesterday about how it seems like American's are forgetting how to survive within their own means. I grew up with my mom cooking, but we were not necessarily frugal. It was only when I moved out that I taught myself to can food, to knit. And I'm not going to pretend like I do those things because I have to (hell, look at my last post to know that I am certainly still with the rest of America at Tar-geh), I choose to. I don't wish that I was born in the late 1800s, but I do want to live a simple life. And I want people, especially in small town Ohio or even more so in American suburbia, to remember it can still be done.

Consumerism gone mad

I'm not a shopper. I still have clothes from college and I graduated 7.5 years ago. However, this trip, I have gone crazy. I've bought 5 pairs of shoes, 2 jeans and countless tops. Oh and don't forget the 2 ball gowns. Yesterday at the Bullseye I couldn't restrain myself from buying DVDs. Yes, I'd intended to get Arrested Development, but then I also saw Burn Notice and Bring It On and I don't even remember whatelse. I'm going to have to buy another suitcase. It's sick, really. And worse yet, I haven't even purchased the items on my list of things to buy - cornstarch, baking powder and Worschteshire (or however it's spelled). At least those things are small. Someone help me.

November 1

Ohio is beautiful this time of year. All the trees are covered with gold and red, but the best part is that the lawns are equally split with Obama and McCain posters. My grandparents/family live in a small town that normally is very conservative. But it seems things are swinging the other way here.

Praise Jebus.

Friday, October 31

Take me home, country roads

Remember how I was mugged this summer, which resulted in me no longer having a driver's license or ATM card. Well, in an amazingly painfree process, I got a new driver's license from the state of Georgia. And it's valid for 10 years! I still haven't bothered with BoA to try and get a new ATM card. I'm still mad at them for not sending me a new one after I was mugged - geeze, obviously I hold grudges.

Anyway, it was vital to get the new license as in my on-going traveler insanity, I decided to add a quick trip up to Ohio to see my relatives. To make it easier to see everyone, I rented a car - which necessitates having a license. I'd forgotten how fun it is to drive! And it's so beautiful here right now. All the leaves are gold and red. It's crisp but not freezing (though apparently they had snow 2 days before my arrival). In the drive to Cousin Mark's house, I discovered that a few wineries have opened near by! I'm going to check those out today.

Last night my dad's siblings gathered for dinner so I could see everyone. It was really nice. My Aunt Rose brought some photos of my family she'd discovered in my grandmother's files. It was a great night.

I spent 2 hours chatting with my lone remaining grandparent, my mother's mother. She's still very with it, fiercely independent and well traveled. We talked about her trips to Poland and the UK, about politics (this conversation far less painful than discussions that occur on my father's side) and my favorite topic, food. Tonight, I'll return to her house to help hand out Halloween candy.

Wednesday, October 29

Sweet Home right-next-to-Alabama

So I made it on Monday's flight. My sister picked me up and we headed straight to Lohemann's. After spending a fair bit of money, we met up with my parents for sushi at Nagoya, our local sushi place in the suburbs. It was great as always.

Yesterday, I got up at 4:30, this after sleeping only a few hours on the plane and forcing myself to stay awake until 10:30! Stupid jet lag. Watched the South Park movie which was a huge mistake, because the rest of the day I was singing "Kyle's Mom's a ..." well, you know. Finally the rest of the family was awake and I could hang out with them. My sister came to get me around noon and we headed off for yet more shopping. I think I've now bought enough to fill my suitcase.

I helped her out by babysitting for one of her "families" - my sister is a nanny. So she could go to her other job. The yard was littered with cut out black cats and witches. But the scariest part of all was the McCain/Palin sign in the front yard. It was hard for me to even go into the house. But then it got scarier still. There was a "sexual intimacy" phamplet sitting out on a side table that has 6 bible lessons to be used in conjunction with a dvd on how to be sexually intimate with your heterosexual marriage partner. My dad picked me up and I realized to my horror that even after 8 years of the shrub as president, my family is still... don't hate me... republican . Oh the horror.

Somehow I'll survive. I mean I survived sharing my sister's bed with her (fine) and her 80 pound bulldog who farts and snores in his sleep (less fine). Today's plan is... no, not more shopping, but instead to get my haircut and other beauty treatments. Tonight we're going out for steak, yummy, yummy steak.

Tomorrow I head to Ohio to see the relatives. Ooh, that reminds me to go priceline a rental car.

It's nice being home.

Sunday, October 26

When luck runs out

Normally, I have insanely good traveler luck. So, back when my sister was visiting and her friend offered me buddy passes, I canceled the ticket I had bought for October break and took her up on the offer - business class here I come. The catch was that the flight was crowded on Saturday, so it was best to wait until Sunday. Sure, extra day in Moscow, no worries. So today, I went to the airport today optimistic that I would get on the oversold flight to Atlanta even though I was flying stand-by. Really, I should have just used my common sense and not gone out to Sheremyetevo at all - by all that is holy do I hate that airport. However, I went. And then I found out yesterday's flight was canceled (the one I was originally booked on!) I was told to wait until the flight boarded to see if there were seats. So I sat and knit. And tried to restrain myself from kicking the screaming children running laps in front of me.

Finally at departure time, they tell the 7 of us waiting to get on the flight, that we're not getting on, but tomorrow looks good. Let's hope so, I'm only giving it one more shot.

However, I learned that taking the public bus from the airport to the metro, while it only costs a dollar takes an HOUR and 45 MINUTES! Sheer, painful, cold (I didn't bring a jacket since I have one in Atlanta that I want to remember to bring back, however, it's only 6 today) hell.

So here I sit, grading papers, updating my blog on the second day of October break.

I must have more interesting things to say, it's been so long since I've posted. Well, in sheer insanity, even though I hate this city, I love my job so much that I think I'll be staying a third (and final) year. So those of you who thought you couldn't make it out while I'm here, still have a chance. Start looking for tickets now... they're cheap. Bree just got a direct flight to NYC for only $675 round trip!

Oh, that reminds me of more exciting news. Natasha is coming to the states with me for x-mas holidays. We're spending a week in the south then heading to Vegas for New Year's and then to California for a few days. Woo hoo.

Oh, and did I mention the unintentional reclaimed viriginity has been taken care of... probably not. But I was tempted to call a future post "Sexing it up" just for The Prettiest Denny's Waitress.

Tuesday, October 14

Hostess with the Mostest

Nate, Vero and Petter arrived September 12th. The day after they left, my sister, her friend Schera, Schera's two sons, Dawson and Garrett, arrived. A full day and a half after they left, Mama Pajama arrived. She left today, October 14th, a full 4 and a half weeks later.

Revolving door. You betcha. Am I burnt out, well, yes, I'm a bit crispy around the edges. Those edges have been snapping off rather easily when my students annoy me. However, I was getting really used to having people to come home to. I already miss Mama P.

Obviously, I did no blogging while people were here. I turned my office into a guest bedroom by putting the mattress from the pull out sofa in here. I was only coming in to get to the laundry room.

It's always interesting to look at Moscow through a visitor's eyes. Here's a story from 8 year-old Dawson about their first night, the one I called "Music or Noise":

And here's a great post from Mama P about our banya experience entitled "I just Picked Dried Cottage Cheese off of my Face": (I hope she doesn't mind me reposting it here...)

Sunday, October 12, 2008

I Just Picked Dry Cottage Cheese off of my Face

Even better, I'd put it here on purpose AND I paid good money to do it. :)

Em, her friend Natasha and I were Russians today. Well, Natalie *is* actually Russian, but Em and I got to be honorary Russians. Naked honorary Russians. We went to something called a banya, or a traditional sauna. Or as it kind of seemed at times, a kind of group, DIY day spa.

My first impression of this particular place was of a lobby-like room, with long, high-backed leather benches, high ceilings, wood wainscoting, and brass fixtures. For a moment, it apeared as though we'd stepped back in time to a 19th century hotel. Except that, unlike most hotel lobbies I've been in, this one was hosting nearly a dozen women draped in only towels or birthday suits, having, you know, tea.

Having all of my preconceptions of the day pretty much squelched immediately upon this sight, I knew I was going to spend the rest of the morning following the lead of Em and Norma. Turns outhe lobby was vack where we paid and dropped of our coats. But even with that knowledge and having the lockers hiding in the wainscotting pointed out to me - and keep in mind, not 5 feet from us a woman in only a thong was applying her makeup in a mirror - my brain had decided that this was a hotel lobby and I could barely take off my clothes. As I slowly peeled off my pants, I expected people to start screaming and the police to storm in and haul me away for indecent exposure. I wrapped myself up in my sheet as quicky as I could. So much for my career as a stripper.

Once undressed, we passed through the frosted glass door into a large, high-ceilinged, white tiled room. Naked women of all shapes and sizes were scattered about; some taking showers in open stalls, some clustered around low benches scrubbing themselves vigorously, and some pouring buckets of water over their heads. We hung up our towels, and aimed for the wooden door leading to the sauna. I got to practice my eye contact as we walked in; a woman bobbed vigorously in a barrel-like cold plunge next to the door, making her breasts piston up and down. Even having breasts myself and knowing what silly things they can be at times, I had to bite the inside of my mouth to keep from bursting into laughter. That had not been a particular sight I'd been planning to take in in Moscow.

The sauna room was pretty impressive structurally. I'm used to small-ish enclosures at spas, maybe holding 4-6 people max. Now, I laugh at their puny saunas with derision. Ha! Ha! Ha! Or at least I would, had my lungs not been burned off and sizzled into pork rinds inside my chest. FUCK was that thing hot! Seriously, I walked in, climbed the steps to the sitting area, stood there for about two seconds before I had to cover my face with a towel so I could breathe, and then marched back to the bottom of the steps where the temperature was only on broil, and not char. I'm sure that 20' square floor-to-ceiling oven had nothing to do with it. I had a brief moment of panic; it was too hot and there was no way I was going to be able to do this. Em - who was calmly sitting there, y'know, breathing - assured me it did take some getting used to, and to just ease myself into it.

And after only a handful of minutes, most women came out and back into the main tiled room, where cold water was applied to the body in one of several fashions. Never before had I been so eager to douse myself with icy water and I jumped into the cold plunge pool (never fear; no pistoning breasts.) And really, once your body is numb, its easier to stand the heat of the sauna, so back and forth we went. (I never could go in without breathing through the towel, though.) The icy cold and the screaming hot eventually start to balance each other out. I joked with Em that it was like vodka and pickles.**

Then comes the DIY part. After you've been sweating yourself clean in the sauna (and possibly beaating yourself with branches of oak leaves at the same time,) its time to scrub down your body with some sort of cleansing agent that you've brought. And by cleansing agent, I of course mean food product. Homemade body scrubs aren't just the thing; they're the norm. Some people use straight coffee grounds, while others mix together paste-like substances. We were a little poor with our preparing; we simply had sea salt and oatmeal, which we just grabbed with our bare hands and started rubbing on our bodies. I think the last time I probably did something like that I was younger than Mags, and I'm betting I probably got a scolding for it. But once you (ok, I) struggled through the fact that the oatmeal was starting to get kind of creamy on your body and is-anyone-else-reminded-of-eating-instant-cereal-on-cold-winter-school-mornings-in-Wisconsin?, it *was* rather pleasant. Then a good rinse***, and back for another round of sauna-ing.

After every 20-30 minutes of spa-ing, we'd head back to the not-lobby. It was during one of these breaks that I was introduced to the cottage cheese (thought I'd forgotten about that, eh?) Nancy had it mixed in with several other ingredients she'd included in her home made facial. We took turns going over to the Thong Mirror and painted the mess onto our faces, and then sat back down and had tea. Obviously cameras were not really something to take to a public spa, but really, the three of us sitting around a marble-topped table having tea and cookies, with egg literally on our faces and sporting a bad case of cottage cheese acne to boot -- damn. Quite a sight to behold, although I'm sure there's some German fetishist group out there somewhere that would've paid good money for those pix.

I got limper and limper every time we took a break. And not surprising; we were there for 3 hours. So. Incredibly. Relaxing. After a while, I didn't really care that lying down on the long leather benches was maybe a bit passe. With every pore in our bodies rinsed out, we all willed our muscles back into life, lotioned up, and struggled back into our clothes.

Good lord. I'm getting relaxed just thinking about it.

Like several new things I've experienced on this trip, I wish I had time to give it a second try. I was lucky in my experience with the St. Petersburg train; it was awkward and uncomfortable not knowing what to do or where to go or how things worked in getting there, but I got to pair that up with a good memory of knowing what to do (and not looking like an idiot) on the ride home. It'd be great to re-do the banya experience, not only to have another drool-inducing morning of relaxation, but again to be able to pair it up with an experience where I felt more like I knew what I was doing. Guess I'll just have to come back then, won't I?

Oh, and appologies to Em's friend Nadine, who's name I could never quite remember and therefore never addressed unless she was looking right at me.

** Vodka consumption in Russia: Shots of vodka are (apparently) often served with a plate of pickled vegetables. After a picked weapon of choice is selected and in hand, a toast is made with the vodka. The you take a sip, raise the pickled [vegertable] to your nose, take a sniff of it, swallow the vodka, and then pop the vegetable into your mouth. Chew. Just sniffing the pickled-ness of the veggie starts to calm down the alcohol in your mouth, and mixed together in your throat, the booze cuts the pickle-ness of the food and the pickle cuts the burn of the booze. They basically completely neutralize each other so that all you are left with is a tasty, tender vegetable. Sounds fairly disgusting at first, but one of my favorite things that I've learned while here. Its like a magic trick with food. :)

*** Note to self: for furture reference, 'a good rinse' includes remembering that all of the oatmeal rubbed onto your body washes down and tends to gather in -ta da! - your pubic hair. For future reference, locking the bathroom stall door before sitting on the toilet and batting at said oatmeal with spread legs is also a good idea. That poor woman.

Thursday, September 25

Music or Noise?

Last night I went to a music performance near my house at one of the churches. It was billed as "Jazz with a big organ and saxophone - negro and other spirituals and improvisations." Sounds cool, right? Well, the first part, this black woman with dreads, playing the organ with barefeet was very cool. Especially when she sang. However, for some reason the organ was really quiet.

Then the next part, a saxophonist with a different organist. It sounded as though they couldn't hear each other and after their "experimentation" I felt like I couldn't hear - or never wanted to hear again - after that. It easily could have been entitled "Improvisational Anarchy" or "Chaos Theory Explored." Definitely not spiritual. And ironically the organ was incredibly loud!

So, that was my sister's first night. "Welcome to Moscow!"

Nate and Vero left Tuesday :( Go read Nate's write up about his trip to Moscow.

Wednesday, September 17

165/365


165/365
Originally uploaded by Traveling Em

I know it doesn't happen very often, but when I go out, I go all out. This photo was taken at 4 in the morning after we returned from a night of vodka drinking at Art Garbage. It was super fun, but I think I'm still recovering. Or maybe I'm recovering from being at work until 9 last night!

Wednesday, September 10

Where's She Been?

Let me 'splain. No, that'd take too long, let me sum up.

Since my hair cut, I:
  • took 4 people out to the Gorbushka Rynok to buy tasty smoked meats
  • went and picked up my newly framed art
  • got incredibly sick - another sinus infection and it was only September 1st!
  • went to a birthday party
  • went to Stockholm for a math conference
  • ate a lot of INCREDIBLE food
  • returned Sunday night at 10:30 pm - realized I'd left behind dirty dishes from being so sick before I left
  • cleaned frantically so my apartment no longer smelled disgusting
  • had a pedicure by two Russian women who came to our apartments for $32!
  • got my new camera!!
  • went out to dinner with friends
  • hosted a Grade 11 assembly
  • organized my Thai Challenge group so we'd have a bake sale Friday (for which I agreed to make banana bread) and a movie night next Friday
  • am organizing travel plans for the 3 friends arriving Friday
  • will meet with a potential new house cleaner tomorrow after mine suddenly quit - after I'd paid her for the summer and August even though she only cleaned twice in that period.
  • updated this blog for the first and probably only time in September

Saturday, August 30

New 'Do

I went and had a hair cut in Moscow today. I paid about what I would pay in the States for a good haircut and thankfully this was also a good haircut. I was a bit concerned when the stylist told me he had come from the (night) club to the salon without sleeping and then even more when he told me he was only 22, but no need to fear, I got a great haircut. ... Now if only my eyebrows would grow back in ;-)

Actually, as you can see from this photo (pre-haircut) taken at dinner with some of my "old lady" friends my eyebrows aren't ~that~ terrible.

Wednesday, August 27

The Omnivore's 100

Taken from my friend Kayaksoup, though it appears to have begun over at Very Good Taste

Here’s what to do:

1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.

Note: I'm adding 4) and 5)
4) Star anything you'd like to try
5) Double Star anything you'd never heard of but after looking up would like to try

The VGT Omnivore’s Hundred:

1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3. Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart

16. Epoisses **
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans

25. Brawn or Head Cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam Chowder in Soudough Bowl
33. Salted Lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float
36. Cognac
37. Clotted Cream Tea
38. Vodka Jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail *
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects *
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth $120 or more

46. Fugu (AKA pufferfish)*
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
54. Paneer

55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal Note: I am such a food snob...
56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores

62. Sweetbreads *
63. kaolin Note: All I could discover about this is it's a type of clay??
64. Currywurst **
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain
70. Chitterlings
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost or brunost **
I had to look this up, I've actually had it but I know it as "wimp cheese" I love it!!
75. Roadkill
76. Baijiu **
77. Hostess Fruit Pie Phew, I'm not that much of a food snob ;)
78. Snail
79. Lapsang Souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom Yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky

84. 3 Michelin Star Tasting Menu *
85. Kobe beef *
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate **
91. Spam I'm loathe to admit this one, but you find it often in Korean fried rice.
92. Soft shell crab
93. Rose Harissa **
94. Catfish
95. Mole Poblano
96. Bagel and Lox
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee

100. Snake *

Wow, out of 100, there are only 17 I haven't tried. I tried to eat bugs, but turns out they don't travel well. You have to eat them fresh. Maybe the next time I'm in Thailand...

So much to say

So little energy to write it up with. First week of school over, check. Like my kids, well most of them, check. Can put faces to names when they're outside of class, err, half check.

Last weekend I went camping and canoeing. It was full of ups and downs, but now writing about it 3 days later, I can say it was great. I had the best night sleep out in the chilly night air all snuggly in my sleeping bag. And I can forget about the SWARMS of mosquitoes and the fact that our "guide" led us about a kilometer past the pick up point which meant about a kilometer of paddling upstream.

We had parent/teacher conferences last night. Last year I had LOADS of parents I think all anxious to meet the new math teacher. Last night I had 16 of about 70 parents show up. It was raining and many of them had been in in the morning for parent coffee, but still, having only 16 makes staying at school for 14 hours that much more painful.

In other news, I had 11 students hand in essays about why they want to travel to Thailand to do community service over February break. I spent all day on the phone confirming that their parents knew about their intentions. Part of the conversation went like this:

Me: "The trip costs $1850..."

All but two parents: "Oh, no problem"...

Me: "Your child is supposed to fund raise a minimum of $850 but we'd like a deposit of $1000 by Friday"

Parents, all but two again, "No problem."

In some ways it's nice, in others, well it feels like I've sold out. But here's a photo from last years "Pie in the Face" fundraiser:

71/365

Tuesday, August 19

First Day of 08/09 School Year

And I am super-pooper. One of the Russian teachers says that, though I think when she says it she means super-duper, but I am pooped! We saw all of our classes for 25 minutes each. Normally students go to half of their classes one day, the other half the next for 90 minute blocks.

25 minutes was too short for a lesson, too long for chit chat, but I didn't feel like doing any "get to know you" stuff. So we muddled along. I heard a few times today "I've heard you're really nice" and "My son is so excited to have you; he's heard nothing but good things." I hope I can live up to everyone's expectations.

Also, already as grade level leader for the 11th grade class I've had 2 students approach me for help.

Yep, all in all, it was a good first day.

Bring on the math tomorrow!

Sunday, August 17

So hot!

I am such a heat wuss! It was 31 C here today (roughly 88 F) and I'm roasting. There's no a/c, no breeze, my fan is just blowing around hot air. I'm such a wuss. No way I'm moving to SE Asia or back to Houston or Atlanta. Ugh.

I've had a great weekend. Went to a Russian (as opposed to Georgian) farmers market and bought loads of cheap, in-season produce. Today I made a plum/sour cherry sauce in my crockpot out of the goodies. Last night I went to an expat party of people I'd never met and we got to know each other over vodka and fresh caviar - fresh caviar is sooo good, by the way. Today I had my art from Thailand framed. I payed more than I wanted to, but that's because I picked the most expensive frame... of course. But it was no more than I would have payed in the states.

And then I've worked a bit too. But really it's too hot to do anything but take another shower. Meh.

When will I learn

not to wax my own eyebrows??? Seriously. I did the under part just fine and then decided to take "just a little" off the top. That never works. Now I have airplane landing strips for eyebrows. I hope they grow back fast...

Friday, August 15

I hope this isn't real

Go watch this horrible online dating videa/plea for an ex-girlfriend to return:

Randy's Message

I think my favorite line is "I'm living with Corey and Janice and it f*ckin' sucks. Will you please bring my truck and our house back?" Or when he offers that they use her sister as a surrogate so that she doesn't get any fatter. Whoa.

Thursday, August 14

Not going to keep me down

I decided to try and keep up the photo of the day project. Hopefully a friend from Laos will be sending me photos which will account for a few missing days. Friday night when I returned to Moscow Tyler took a photo of me with my new art:
128/365

However, I wasn't in any (that I know of) from Saturday - Wednesday of this week. So I can go back and find some images depicting what I did those days:

Saturday 129/365 Took the new hires to Mega Mall
Sunday 130/365 Went to the rynok, cooked a ton
Monday 131/365 Went into school with many of my library books (didn't need to be there)
Tuesday 132/365 Business Lunch at Goodman's
Wednesday 133/365 First day of work, dinner with vodka and pickles with bree and deem

I decided to pick up the project again today. I shouldn't let the mugger ruin my year of photos. So Carol took one of me this evening:

134/365

The t-shirt makes me look like I've added 20 pounds since Friday's picture, but that's not true (thank goodness!), it's just the shirt. Though I should move away from Carol's delicious cookies ASAP!

Tuesday, August 12

In which Lonely Planet responds

I sent an email to Lonely Planet about all the crime in Vang Vieng. They mention pickpocketing in their guides as an "annoyance happening by other tourists." So I wrote that it has escalated to way more than an annoyance and that I was definitely mugged by a Laos man, not another tourist. The response amused me, especially the part I put in bold:

Hi Emily

Thanks for taking the time to contact us and I'm sorry to ehar of your experience in Vang Vieng. It certainly sounds like it's changed since I was last there around five years ago.

I've forwarded your comments on to the commissioning editor of the guidebook so that they can be taken on board when it's next updated. They'll also ensure that your email is forwarded to the authors before they begin their research and between them they'll try and work out how better to highlight this issue in the next edition.

Readers' feedback is a great help to us in keeping our books relevant and up-to-date, which in turn helps out other travellers [sic] who use our guidebooks.

Thanks again Andrea.

Cheers

Simon


I totally appreciate that they wrote back and hope that they do warn people not to go to Vang Vieng with anything valuable. And maybe I shouldn't point out that the guy called me Andrea and misspelled travelers, but I wouldn't be TravelingEm if I didn't support the correct spelling!

And speaking of the name Andrea, that's one of my cousins names. She pronounces it "Ann-dree-ah." However, when she got married in the church she's been attending since childhood in small town Ohio, you know the kind of place where everyone knows your name, the priest called her "Ahn-dray-ah" throughout the whole wedding. Does this mean she's not actually married?

Monday, August 11

Back in my Kitchen

I've returned to 20 degree (C) temperatures in Moscow. It's cool and perfect, except it's already gray rather than sunny. But I've been super inspired to cook since it's been so long. I busted out the crockpot and made a yummy mixed bean chili. Yes, I had success with beans! I just threw all these various types of beans - kidney, baby lima, green lentils, garbonzos, black-eyed - all dried, into the crockpot and let it go. After a few hours on high I added a chopped onion, some garlic, fajita seasoning, oregano, smoked paprika, salt and soy sauce. It's so good!

I was also in the mood to stuff peppers, so I tried that this morning in the crock pot as well. However, that didn't work so well. They ended up way too mushy. And even though I'd added loads of spices, fresh and dried, they just had very little flavor. Oh well, live and learn. They're not bad enough to throw away, just not necessarily good enough to look forward to.

Saturday, August 9

Back and Busy

I made it back ok last night with 100 baht (~$3) to spare. And just in time! Claire reported to me that she interuppted someone ransacking our room. A new arrival to the farm lost almost $1,000!!

Also, I got word from my insurance company that the travel insurance covers costs regarding bodily injury, or so it seems. Looks like I'll be forking out the dough for a new camera. Le sigh.

In other news, I'm 61% Texan:

You are 61% REAL Texan!!

You're mostly texan. You know your Mexican food, state heritage and are probably slightly politically aware. You can probably pronounce Kukendall, Manchaca and Boerne correctly. Go you.

How Texan Are You?

Wednesday, August 6

On the way home

I leave tomorrow morning for Nong Khai in Thailand. From there I'll catch the overnight train to Bangkok and then I fly out of there at 11 a.m. back to Moscow via Helsinki.

I'm in a better mood today aided by the fact that I slept for 10 hours having not been able to sleep at all the night of the mugging. I've bicycled into town and saw the police. It appeared that they have done nothing but watched TV since the last time I saw them. They gave me a copy of the report I filled out which I will try to file with the insurance company when I return.

So last update until I make it back to Moscow.

You know what sucks the most, I think this pretty much ruined my picture of the day until I'm 30 project.

Sigh.

Tuesday, August 5

Laos Tourist Police

This morning Mr. T, the owner of the organic farm took me on a drive. I was hoping that maybe the theifs had thrown out my math books and I would find them on the side of the road. Slim chance I know, but worth looking I thought.

So we drove all the way down to town and then he took me to the tourist police office. There were about 3 police officers sitting on the couch watching HBO, 1 was behind a desk. He motioned me to sit down on a chair designed for a 5 year old, so that I was lower then he was - good thing I'm taller than most Laos people.

He hardly asked what happened, mostly wanted to know what was taken. Finally I was given a form to fill out, name, DOB, passport number and then on the second page a list of what was taken. It was then that I started crying, just barely. And he asks "Where are you from?" I'm choked up so I don't respond, so he repeats the question slower, "Where ... are ... you ... from?"

"America, but I live in Russia."

Once I've listed everything that was taken and convince him that I actually was mugged, he then asks me, "What do you want us to do?"

"Umm, catch the robber. Get me back my math books. I'd really like my memory cards from my cameras, oh and the cameras would be nice too."

I hear from him, "There are 5 witnesses."

"What???"

Mr. T translates, "They would like to FIND witnesses."

Then he goes to talk to his boss to determine if my story is worth investigating. Then I get to talk to the boss. Mr. T who was with me and had been translating a bit, didn't get to come. Small room, very smoky. Man behind the desk and another sitting on a platform made of wood, seems to be where they'd nap. But this man actually asks me details about what happened.

Then he tells me they're going to call the heads of the villages to see if they know who took my things. I'm supposed to go back tomorrow morning, where they'll either give me my stuff or give me a report for the insurance. Maybe this will teach me to start getting travel insurance... Off to check to see if my credit card company does provide insurance for travel purchased as I'd assumed before I left. Finger's crossed.

Monday, August 4

What it feels like to get mugged

Riding home on our bikes in the rain was bad enough. It was dark and I had my flashlight. Claire had on her headlamp. We're about 10 minutes away from the farm. I say, "Person walking on the right." Then the person turns and lifts his rain poncho and moves towards me. Then I realize he's grabbing my bag from my basket. I scream at him. "NO!!!" Claire has dropped her bike. I've thrown mine down and kicked off my shoes. I'm chasing him - obviously not thinking. Then a motor bike comes out of no where. I think "Oh, good, help." But no, he jumps on the back and I watch him ride away with both of my cameras - this is the first night that I've brought out my digital SLR because we were going to teach the monks - something we didn't even do because of the rain. Also in the bag my wallet, the 600,000 kip I'd withdrawn for the rest of my journey, and my fucking math that I've been working on for 4 weeks. All the pictures that I haven't downloaded yet.

Oh and as to how I feel.

Scared
Pissed Off
Scared
Really bloody pissed off because it seems to be very planned. As if they passed us, saw us cycling, then turned around and set it up because the motor bike came out of no where and we didn't see anyone else out or walking in the rain.

Shit.

More Monday Adventures

It's Monday again. I just wrote about how I went caving last Monday. Today we choose another adventure, this time, it was kayaking. We see people do it from our river side bar location and I've heard people talk about how many times their kayak tipped, but I didn't really think it would happen to me. Until it did.

The river is moving pretty quick (rainy season strikes again), but my life jacket was strapped on tight. What I didn't anticipate was getting stuck under the kayak as we rushed past bushes. The whole reason we tipped over was because of the freaking bushes. Claire and I had ended up heading towards them and we were frantially pedaling trying to get away from them and then as we headed into them, we leaned to avoid being hit in the face by them, but we leaned too far and then we were in the water. Under the kayak. When I got out and my head was above water I was terrified because I still couldn't breath as I was choking on the water I'd inhaled. Claire and I were holding on to the boat, trying to keep our feet up to avoid hitting them on buried bolders and we made it to one of the guides. He helped us flip our boat over and we managed to climb back in. We even caught up to our water bottle and rescued that. It was terrifying. But that was just one small part of the 2 hour journey. The rest was gorgeous and we managed to stay in the rest of the time even through the "rapids."

Another of our 5 boats flipped and that one was even scarier. They were also near a huge rock and bushes - stripped bushes, lots of sharp painful sticks. They were trying to hold onto their boat but they were being rushed by the current into the bushes. The guides were screaming "Swim! Swim! Let go of the boat!" Finally they heard and did. They swam to one of the guide's boats and hung on. The other guide had pulled over and "parked" his boat on a small bank. I'm not sure how he got there, but he made it to their boat and swam it back. Meanwhile, Claire and I and two of the other guys, unable to paddle upstream had "parked" ourselves in a slower part of the river by holding on to more of the aforementioned stripped bushes.

Did I mention it was fun? Because really it was, it wasn't scary the whole time. We had moments where we were all splashing each other and laughing at Hoon and Min because they both lost their shoes in their escapade.

The craziness will continue in a different form. Tonight we're heading to the local wat to teach the novice monks' English class. Must remember not to touch the monks. (Um, last week I tried to shake one's hand before I remembered... embarassing!)

Sunday, August 3

Those vs These

I went back to English class on Thursday and worked on "What are these/those?" It was when I was holding up my Chako's (sandals) to say "What are these?" that I had to improvise on the lesson. The students responded "They are shoes." And I added, "These shoes smell!!!" Have I mentioned rainy season yet? It rained for almost 48 hours non-stop and hence my shoes never really get a chance to dry out. I gave them a shampoo soak and brought them into my room to dry out under the ceiling fan.

Now, we've finally had about 30 dry hours and my shoes don't smell as bad... I'm sure you're all relieved.

Speaking of bugs...

I'm not taking any anti-malarials. I decided relatively last minute to come to Laos. Then I was just too busy in Bangkok to be bothered going to a travel clinic. So I figured I'd just use bug spray, even though I hate it. However, even with teh spray it turns out I'm pretty tasty to bugs and my legs and ankles are getting bit to hell. So I've stopped poisoning myself and the environment and am just hoping that it's true when everyone says there's only malaria up in the jungle of Laos...

A Tropical Bug's Life

I have encountered some of the biggest bugs I have ever seen staying out on the farm.

The farm has housing scattered all around and I'm staying in the "Mulberry Tree House," the furthest lodging point from the cafe/office hub of the farm. You get there by following the main path past the dorm, then the bamboo house, then the "Fruit House," over a bridge, past the goats, then the geese and finally you arrive. However, once you pass the bridge you're in the dark with the moon providing the only light - and in rainy season, that means you've got no light to guide you.

So those first few nights, I was walking trying desperately not to hear Claire's voice repeating the story of how when she first arrived and was being given a tour, they came across a cobra in the path. Yes, you read right a COBRA! Here's an excerpt of the conversation going on in my head...

Mind: "Stop worrying. Cobras are tucked away under a rock at night."

Self: "How do you know that?! We don't know that..."

Mind: "It doesn't matter anymore. See we've made it back to the tree house light. Now we should collect everything we need for our shower so we only have to make one trip."

The toilet block is about 10 meters away from the rooms, which is fine, except when it's raining. Have I mentioned it's rainy season?? So I gather my stuff and head off and decide maybe I'll shake things up and use the other shower, just for kicks.

Outloud: "Holy shit!"

Mind & Self, in unison: "That's the biggest spider I've ever seen!"

Outloud: "Fucking hell."

Mind: "I wish I had my camera."

Self: "It's not something we normally bring to the shower..."

After staring in admiration for a bit, I headed to the shower - my original shower. The entire toilet block has an open ceiling, so when my new friend, the Unruly Redhead appears I say, "URH, do you see that?" "See what?... Oh my god!" "I know! Crazy right?" "Ayuuuuck..." "What's happening? Is it on you?" "No, it's eating one of those huge grass hoppers alive!"

Now, I'm rushing through my shower, this I have to see. Then I hear from the URH "Oh no..." "What?" "I can't see it anymore. I don't know where it went?" "Is it on you?," I ask again. "I don't think so..." I emerge and give her a quick scan. She's spider free as far as I can tell. Knowing me and my pea sized bladder, I open the door to the WC before I head back to my room. "URH, I think I may have found the missing spider," I say jumping back out. But on closer inspection we determine that this is a different, skinnier, but same diameter spider.

I use the other toilet and return to my room for my camera. When I get back the URH and I search for teh spider. In the meantime, I scare a praying mantis (at least 4 inches long) into its web.

When my insect voyerism session has ended I head back to my room only to find another huge spider right next to my door.

Mind: "What is up with the gigantic spiders here?"

Self: "So I'm not the only one freaked out?"

Mind: "No, but I'm still sure we'll be fine..."

And sure enough after a week I've yet to find myself attacked by anything bigger than a mosquito.

Friday, August 1

Caves!

Monday's are generally the volunteer's "day off." Even though the mojito bar is still open there are no evening activities with the students, such as English class or dance class. So five of us set off an our rented bicycles to explore some of the caves in the area. Within 100 meters my bike broke, or I should say my second bike broke as I had already exchanged my first bike because only the back break worked and just barely at that. But with the second bike it would make noises like it was trying to change gears - but it's a fixed gear bike - and then the chain would stop moving all together. So I took it back and got my first bike back.

It was an easy 7 km cycle on the "highway." We were passed by only a few cars and motor bikes and the cows kept to the sides of the road, mostly. Then we reached the turnoff for the caves. This was tougher cycling down a rocky, muddy road, but beautiful, past rice fields. It led us to the river where the bridge only had 2 half-missing boards. We continued along an irrigation ditch, throughout which children were frolicking in a way universal to 5 year olds.

Finally we reached the first cave. You pay 10,000 kip (roughly $1.50) and they lend you a flashlight. There are no signs, no guid, just a path to follow. We made it inside and the cave went really deep. It was dark, full of stalagtites and bats and was everything a cave should be.

Next we headed back along the irrigation ditch to a second cave. This time only 3 of us went in - the other 2 decided caves weren't really their thing. Same thing, 10,000 kip, torch, and a longer walk to the cave. More climbing to get in and immediately we hear the rushing water. We go in maybe 150 meters before we hit the rushing stream. I wade into my knees and we decide it'd be too dangerous to try to cross and the water is flowing so fast, so we return. There the guy who took our money says that if we'd crossed there would have been a small shelf we could have climbed on. The water would have reached somewhere between our hips and breasts. Did I mention how fast it was flowing? But apparently in dry season you can go back about a kilometer!